How to Translate Text to Other Languages in Microsoft Word 2007

How to Translate Text to Other Languages in Microsoft Word 2007

The world has become a global village where you need to communicate with people of diverse cultures and languages. We come across people who speak different languages on the internet, or we need to communicate with different people in the global business market. Sometimes we need to translate business documents as everybody doesn’t speak the same language. Students might need to translate some facts as well as information e.g. the history of a specific country into their own language in order to learn about its history.

Everyone can’t have an access to a professional translator who could help them out in this matter. Due to this reason, word-processing programs are available who try to fulfill this requirement. Other than the different programs which fill this requirement, it is possible to translate text in Microsoft Word 2007. The feature to translate text in Microsoft Word 2007 can be used like any other translation program. In order to translate text in Microsoft Word 2007, we just have to use its built-in function.

Follow the given steps to translate word text into other languages:

Select the text you want to translate. You can type it there and then or you could paste it from somewhere. If you need to select the entire document, and if it is very lengthy, you can go back to the "edit" tab and click "select all." Or you can just highlight the entire or part of the text by clicking the left mouse button and dragging it across the text you want to highlight.

Click on Review button on Menu bar.

Click on Translate in the Review tab.

A task pane will appear on the right side of the document. Select which language you would like to translate into or the existing language it is in. Here is where you can select which language to translate to or from.

The selected or highlighted text will be translated in the lower part of the task pane. You can get the translation of the same text into different languages instantly as you choose the language under the option of "To".

If you need to translate the selected text into a language that is not included in the given list, click on Translation options and select the particular language you want.

This helpful feature to translate text in Microsoft Word is very handy. However, there is no substitute for a human professional translator as good and meaningful translation demands comprehension as well as understanding of cultural references, artistic quality and talent. So there are chances that the translation done by a computer program will lack profundity as well as meaning.

Windows Home Server 2011: What It Is and How to Use It

Windows Home Server 2011 is here. Find out if it's right for you--and how to set it up.

Microsoft's original Windows Home Server was both crude and groundbreaking. When it debuted, it had limited hardware support, no 64-bit version, and weak built-in capabilities beyond file and app storage. On the other hand, it offered robust backup, reasonable security, and drive extender--a feature that simplified the tasks of adding and pooling hard drives.

Because the original WHS was built on an older server platform, an update was inevitable. Windows Home Server 2011 has now arrived, and with it a bevy of new features--and one key feature of the older version removed. Let's start by looking at why WHS 2011 is a good fit for your home-server needs.

64-bit functionality: Windows Home Server 2011 is 64-bit only, but it's a welcome upgrade from 32-bit. Using 64-bit addressing lets you add more than 4GB of RAM.

With the original WHS, having a lot of RAM wasn't particularly useful. In fact, some retail WHS boxes shipped with as little as 512MB of RAM, and 1GB was the norm. That first Home Server wasn't very suitable for running apps remotely. Eventually, interesting plugins became available--like Servio, which enabled WHS to be a better media server.

Better media server: Windows Home Server 2011 has robust media transcoding and streaming capabilities, and it supports a wide range of codecs--AAC, AVCHD, DivX, MPEG-2, MPEG-4, WMV, and more. It's now a DLNA 1.5-compliant server, meaning that DLNA-capable client devices can connect to a WHS system set up as a media server. As more HDTVs, A/V receivers, and other similar home electronic devices ship with built-in DLNA client capability, combining a robust media server and a robust PC server in one box becomes increasingly useful.

The original WHS didn't have this capability built-in, so various media server plug-ins were among the most popular WHS plug-ins available. But those aren't needed any longer (though some may have additional features beyond those in WHS 2011.)

Windows 7 HomeGroups: You can add a WHS 2011 box to your HomeGroup, which makes sharing files and printers much easier. The only drawback is that there's setting up shares in this way results in a little granularity. You can have read access, full access, or no access.

Easier login management: Logging in to the first release of WHS was something of a chore. You could make things easier by using the same characters for your system login and for your account login on the server, and then enabling auto-logon on your PC. But setting up that arrangement on multiple PCs was tedious and created a security risk.

WHS 2011 uses an external application, the Dashboard, to separate PC logins from Windows Home Server logins. This allows you to have no login on your desktop PC while maintaining secure access to the server.

Easier server management: Managing the first WHS wasn't especially difficult, but you always had to work through a single, modal screen. With 2011, you get full support for windows on your desktop connected remotely. I ran Windows Update on the server from my desktop PC, and it looked just as it would have if I were running Windows Update on my local PC.

Why Not Use WHS 2011?

If you're comfortably using the current version of Windows Home Server, is upgrading to the new version worth the inevitable pain of adjustment? The answer depends on several things:

• The importance you attach to the new features

• The level of upgrade pain you're willing to live with

• The usefulness to you of Drive Extender

Our assumption here is that you've either built your own WHS box or are a current user of a retail WHS system.

Drive Extender: The one huge feature that Microsoft dropped from WHS 2011 is Drive Extender. That decision has generated reams of complaints from heavy WHS version 1 users.

Drive Extender pooled multiple hard drives into a single large volume. It wasn't RAID--there was no hardware redundancy, and no improvement in performance. Essentially it was just a way to minimize the hassle of adding hard drives, which didn't have to be the same size, and of managing multiple disk volumes. But it made building huge volumes easy; and if you recorded a lot of media, that could be a big deal.

Though Drive Extender didn't create hardware redundancy as such (nor RAID 1, for example), you could specify duplication for shared folders, and the software would replicate folders on separate drives. That capability simplified the job of adding external drives and configuring them as part of the system.

So if you're wedded to Drive Extender, you might not want to migrate to WHS 2011.

The good news is that third parties are stepping into the fray. The site wegotserved.com reports that at least three third-party drive extender drivers will be available for WHS 2011.

Upgrade pain: If you've been using WHS 1, and you've fully configured it with plugins for serving up media, home-power management, and other features, you may be in no hurry to migrate. That's because upgrades to WHS 2011 from the original aren't simple.

There is no clean upgrade path from WHS 1 to WHS 2011 because the first version of WHS is a 32-bit OS while WHS 2011 is 64-bit. Upgrading entails performing a clean install of the OS onto the system.

This procedure is a little tricky with existing hardware. A number of retail WHS systems were built around Intel Atom CPUs, and many of them didn't support 64-bit addressing, which means that they can never be upgraded to WHS 2011. The program requires 64-bit support in the CPU.

If you have a 64-bit-capable CPU, you'll have to back up all your data, then install WHS 2011, and then restore the backed-up data. It's time consuming and tedious if you have a lot invested in your current installation.

Now that we understand some of the pros and cons, let's walk through a WHS 2011 installation. This is not an upgrade, but a new install. I've got an existing WHS version 1 box, that I'll eventually phase out, but this makes upgrading to the new system somewhat easier, since I can skip the backup step.

Initial Setup

The hardware used for this installation is built around a Zotac mini-ITX motherboard with an Intel Core i3 530 CPU and 4GB of DDR3 RAM. The system lacks a DVD drive, so we used a Samsung external USB optical drive to handle the installation. This meant making sure that the system BIOS was set up to boot from the USB drive.

The system housed a single unformatted 2TB Western Digital GreenPower drive. The entire process went smoothly at the beginning, and if you've ever run Windows Setup, you won't find much different in the Windows Home Server routine. But we hit a snag at the end of the automated process: The system didn't have a built-in driver for the gigabit ethernet controller. That missing ingredient generated an error message, which resulted in a reboot, which led to the same problem and error message. In short, Windows Setup had entered an infinite loop.

Escaping this catch-22 is simple. After completing the 'Preparing Desktop' phase, you'll see the 'configuring Windows' screen with a progress bar; at that point, simply press Ctrl-Alt-Delete, open the task manager, and kill the setup process. Windows will unceremoniously dump you to the desktop, at which point you can install the chipset and the network drivers. Unlike in the Windows 7 setup, installing chipset drivers didn't require a reboot.

For us, after that little gotcha, the remainder of the installation process went smoothly. Windows Home Server 2011 configures a single drive into two partitions: a relatively small boot partition, and a larger data drive. Now it's time to configure the first client PC, which will also be the main server management console.

Configuring a Client

You no longer need to use a CD or a thumb drive to configure a client, though you can certainly set a system up using a CD if you want to. Instead, bring up a browser and type the following URL:

http:///connect

replacing with the name that you assigned to the server during setup. You'll download the WHS connector installer, and then run it.

If you have auto logon configured, you'll be prompted to revert to login-required mode. You don't have to search around for this; the WHS connector app will launch it for you. At that point, you'll have to reboot, and then run the connector setup app again.

Launchpad is separate from Dashboard, so you can have different logins than your desktop system uses.Once the WHS connector is installed, you'll run the Launchpad app. The first time you do this, you actually run the Windows Home Server dashboard. After you've set up WHS, Launchpad and Dashboard are two different animals. You should set up a user account that is not the same as the system administrator account, and give it a different password. This will allow you to work just with your own file shares. You can always launch Dashboard from Launchpad.

The new admin Dashboard for WHS 2011 looks much like the old one.This separation of the WHS user login, your local system login, and the WHS server admin login simplifies matters considerably. You no longer need a client login if you're dealing with a simple home network where you trust all your family members--but sometimes it's best to be cautious.

You'll also want to configure global server settings, which we will discuss under three headings.

Configuring the streaming quality depends on your CPU performance. Media server and media streaming capabilities: The tricky part here is to figure out streaming quality, which depends on the performance of your CPU; unfortunately, figuring out which setting to use is difficult. If you click on the 'Common processors and the profiles that they support' link, you'll get a Web page that tells you which Windows Experience CPU Index is suitable for which quality level. But you get no other clues, since WHS 2011 doesn't implement WEI. Instead, the refrence page suggests that you "find a system that's running the same CPU and use that WEI." That advice is about as dumb as it seems. If you're using a Core i3 or better, you can probably safely adjust the setting to 'Best'.

WHS 2011 can be part of a Windows 7 HomeGroup. HomeGroup setup for Windows 7 users: All this means is that you add the WHS system to your Windows HomeGroup, which simplifies access to the server.

You can use your own domain name, but your choice of domain name registrars is limited. Remote access: You no longer have to use the Microsoft homeserver site, though you can use it if you like. If you have a domain of your own, you can make the WHS system part of that for remote access, but your choice of domain name providers is limited to GoDaddy.com and eNomCentral.com. If your domain isn't registered with one of those providers, you'll have to transfer your domain name to them in order to use it.

Assuming that you have other client PCs to configure, you'll need to set those up next; but with your newly acquired experience, you should have no problems doing that.

You'll want a separate account for each user.The next thing you need to do is set up user accounts for each person on your home network. This is a pretty simple job, and it should take very little time on each system that you install the WHS connector software on. Note that WHS 2011 now defaults to weak passwords, so if you want stronger passwords, you'll have to change the policy.

Backups

One key feature of Windows Home Server is its backup capability. You can set up backup schedules, specify which files and folders to back up, and start backups manually as needed. If you need different backup configurations from the default one, you must make those changes via Dashboard. Individual users cannot make changes to their own backup policies through Launchpad.

You configure backups from the Dashboard.Since WHS 2011 doesn't support GPT partitioned drives, you can't use the newer 3TB hard drives unless you have a special driver. Your client system can use GPT drives, which you can back up on a file-by-file basis, but restoring files to the GPT volume appears not to be implemented. As a result, you'll have to copy to an intermediate volume first.

That pretty much covers all of the steps involved in performing a basic WHS installation and configuration. You may have to do more for your particular installation--for example, you may have to point DLNA clients to the new server, or find add-ins (such as the third-party drive replacements add-ins). At this point, though, you have all of the basics set up and ready to go.

How To Fix and Avoid Printer Paper Jams

Printer jams occur when the paper feeding through the printer goes awry. Sometimes the printer ignores the problem, soldiers onward, and extrudes a crumpled mess into the output tray; on other occasions, the printer stops in midjob, and the crumpled mess--or part of it--remains trapped somewhere inside the machine.

When a paper jam occurs, some printers flash lights at you and scream for help. Others sense where the jam is and provide guidance on clearing the blockage. If your printer offers diagnostic advice, follow it. Also, take time to check the printer's documentation for help in clearing jams. Here are the basic steps you'll follow to correct the problem:

1. Turn off the printer. If you're going to be working inside the printer, you don't want any trouble with electricity or moving parts. And if you're dealing with a laser printer, you also don't want the fuser to generate additional heat. If the paper is jammed in or near the fuser unit (you'll feel the heat as you come near it), you'll have to wait for the fuser to cool off before clearing the jam.
2. Open all doors leading to the paper path. If you can't tell which door leads to the paper jam, start by removing or opening the input tray and following the paper path all the way to the output tray, opening every door or panel that you can find along the way.
3. Carefully pull out paper sheets and scraps. Check for paper sheets that are stuck or askew, as well as for paper scraps. Pull paper out of the path firmly but very carefully and slowly. When possible, pull paper in the direction it is supposed to go in under normal conditions--not backward, which could strain the printer's mechanics.Take care to remove all of the paper: As any scraps that remain could cause further jamming. If you have the misfortune of breaking a mechanical piece in the printer, stop what you're doing and call for service.
4. Close all doors and turn on the printer. Once switched on, the printer should reset itself automatically. If the printer reports that it is still jammed, double-check for stray paper scraps, and then close all the doors again. If the printer continues to complain, try turning it off and then back on. If the complaints continue, you'll have to call for service--and hope that a deep-seated piece of paper--rather than a broken mechanical part--is the source of the problem.

To avoid a jam next time:

1. Use only one kind of paper at a time in your input tray.
2. Whether you have a single input tray in your printer's driver or many input trays, tell the printer what kind of paper you have in the tray: Most printer controls include a section or drop-down list where you can pick a paper by name, type, thickness, or other quality.
3. If you aren't sure whether your printer takes a certain kind of paper, check its documentation.
4. When you reload your input tray, pay attention to the tray's needs, such as how the paper should be loaded and whether the length or width guides need adjusting.

With some patience and attention, you can probably overcome any printer problem that vexes you--and avoid having the nightmare recur in the future. Here's how to address five of the most common printer complaints.